By Kim GronnigerPhoto by JD Melton
Farm-to-Table-RowHouse-2
At the RowHouse Restaurant, patrons might find proprietor Greg Fox snipping basil from the backyard garden for a seasonal signature cocktail or preparing an entrée embellished with a just-right ratio of ingredients both predictable and wholly unexpected.
Fresh herbs are paramount in Fox’s kitchen, “the best way to flavor anything,” he said. “The most exciting time for us is when we get to snip herbs.” Greg Fox enjoys team camaraderie as much as his patrons enjoy the dining experience.
Since opening his restaurant 11 years ago, Fox has been a proponent of locally sourced food. He often attends the Capitol Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays, sometimes picking up Rees Fruit Farm apple cinnamon doughnuts that he converts into toasted panko crumbs, bread pudding and croutons sprinkled on salads.
Growing up with a backyard garden, Fox learned early the satisfaction of “eating tomatoes right off the stem and salads with all their crunchy, zippy, tangy flavors.”
His mom, a former lunch lady who made chili, cinnamon rolls and other cafeteria staples at Assumption Grade School, piqued Fox’s interest in the culinary arts.
“She was a great cook and made everything from scratch, and that’s what we do here at the RowHouse,” he said.
Each course Fox serves, from a two-bite savory starter to a trio of bite-sized sweets to end the meal, is artfully arranged with careful attention paid to color and composition as well as taste.
With an evolving menu of American and European favorites and vegetarian variations like cauliflower meatloaf and mushroom meatballs, the RowHouse has cultivated a clientele comprising regulars as well as curious diners seeking a culinary experience not offered by chain restaurants.
“We used to have to do a little more coaching with some customers who were reluctant to get out of their comfort zone, but now they keep coming back because they know we’ll take care of them,” Fox said.
The RowHouse also caters to tourists looking for unusual experiences in the capital city and offers an assortment of Kansas craft beers.
“We always use local merchants when we can because buying from those homegrown businesses helps stimulate our economy,” said Fox.
The RowHouse Restaurant, 515 Van Buren, serves lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Wednesday through Saturday by reservation.
