SMALL SPACES | THE KNOX
Photos by Jennifer Goetz
In an 1888 downtown building where prohibitionist Carrie Nation was once chased out the back door, a new lounge offers an enticing space for spirits and spirited conversations on soft leather sofas and velvet couches or in cozy nooks with whiskey barrels serving as tables.
The Knox, named for the bank that once occupied the building, retains its original black-and-white tile flooring, brass handrails and monogrammed doorknobs, lending a timeless nod to elegance now executed through transactions involving classic cocktails instead of deposit slips.
Located across the hall from The White Linen, Adam and Kasie VanDonge’s five-year-old fine dining restaurant, The Knox makes it convenient for customers interested in having a drink before or after their dinner reservations while accommodating individuals who just want to catch up with family and friends in novel surroundings.
The walls are adorned with a couple of colorful paintings by John Holcomb, a Mayetta native and friend of the VanDonges who shows and sells his work internationally.
In addition to drinks, patrons can order charcuterie plates, black truffle popcorn made in collaboration with Cashmere Popcorn and small plates featuring ingredients used in The White Linen’s rotating monthly pre-fixed menu.
“When my wife and I go out, we want to have a nice conversation in a quiet place with good drinks, good music and good lighting, so The Knox grew from that concept,” said VanDonge. “We’ve really had fun with the lighting here because that sets the mood. We have seating capacity for 28, the same as the restaurant, because we prefer smaller, more intimate settings and our customers do too.”
Each quarter VanDonge and his creative bartenders introduce a dozen or so new cocktails reflecting seasonal elements to complement a standardized menu of traditional favorites like Old Fashioneds, martinis and daiquiris. New cocktails are named for historical elements pertaining to the building and Topeka.
“Our bartenders are great guys who take pride in preparing cocktails, so we ask customers to be patient,” said VanDonge. “They’re mixing a lot of ingredients and the good stuff takes time.”
Suspension of time at The Knox is part of the aesthetic and the attraction. A framed television shows old-school movies without sound so the diversion doesn’t distract from the lounge’s musical selections, which are often Rat Pack family favorites.
VanDonge learned to appreciate the importance of slowing down and savoring culinary experiences while watching his paternal grandmother cook.
“She made everything from scratch, whether it was a pasta dish or a pie, and she always played records while she did it—Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin or Nat King Cole,” said VanDonge, a Kansas City Culinary Institute graduate. “Even though I grew up on a farm in Soldier, my grandmother embedded a 1960s Las Vegas vibe in me that has influenced my love for fine dining and lounges ever since. Everything’s come full circle.”
The Knox offers an artistically arranged wall of premium bottles of bourbon, scotch, rum and tequila so connoisseurs can purchase one ounce pours of libation labels they might be curious about.
“Instead of spending $300 on a bottle of something you’re not sure you’re going to like, you can sample it before you commit,” said VanDonge.
A fan of bourbon, especially in Old Fashioneds, VanDonge said his go-to drink is made in batches.
“People do a lot of experimental stuff with Old Fashioneds, but ours is just a simple, delicious drink that I think we’ve perfected,” he said. “It’s probably our top seller.”
Patrons who prefer wine, beer and non-alcoholic beverages have choices too. About a dozen craft beers, including regional favorites, are rotated frequently while Michelob Ultra and Modelo are always available.
VanDonge also operates a private membership speakeasy down the hall that serves about a dozen people at a time and provides discounts for restaurant dining. Usage is by reservation only between 4 p.m. and “whenever the last person leaves,” he said.
Transforming a historic, distinctive space into an elevated entertainment destination downtown has been a gratifying journey for VanDonge, who first conceived his idea for The White Linen through monthly word-of-mouth gourmet dinners he hosted in the Holton sandwich shop he previously owned.
“I love history and I think it’s cool that we’ve turned a place where Carrie Nation got chased out of into not just one bar but two,” said VanDonge, laughing. “It’s awesome to have guests who’ve lived in Topeka all their lives come into this building and learn about it while having fun with their family and friends. I just love our spaces and I’m glad other people are discovering them too.”
