Chez Yasu
Photos by: JOHN BURNS & RACHEL LOCK
When Mako Ueno came to Kansas from Japan to attend Ottawa University, she forged key connections that would change the trajectory of her life. During college, she worked as a server at Tatsu’s French Restaurant in Prairie Village and befriended the owner ,Tatsu Aria, and another chef, Yasu Hatasawa. She married fellow OU college student John Fakhoury and moved to Topeka, where he attended Washburn University School of Law and she felt the first pull toward entrepreneurism.
Ueno often lamented the lack of local restaurants in Topeka in her conversations with Hatasawa. While driving around her Westboro neighborhood, she found a former restaurant available for lease. After Aria assessed the space as a “once in a lifetime opportunity,” she and Hatasawa opened Chez Yasu in December 2004.
“I was really excited to bring a nice restaurant to the neighborhood, but I knew it was risky,” she said. “Buying a former restaurant that already came with tables and chairs and a commercial kitchen made the risk more manageable.”
In a surprise twist, after 10 unsuccessful years to become pregnant, Ueno found out shortly after she signed the contract for the restaurant that she was pregnant.
“It was stressful, but it worked out,” she said. Ueno and Hatasawa relied on word-of-mouth recommendations to promote their restaurant, which found success in offering a limited menu of crowd-pleasing French favorites.
“Our customers know what they like and find our consistency comforting,” said Ueno. “We serve really good food and everything’s from scratch, which works better with a smaller menu.”
The yellow squash soup is a particular favorite.
“People are addicted to that soup,” said Ueno. “During COVID, they lined up to get it to go.”
In addition to taste, Ueno strives to ensure that texture, color and presentation appeal to the senses too.
“I grew up going to nice restaurants in Japan where dining is more of an experience with beautiful plates even for everyday cooking,” she said. “It wasn’t just about eating because you were hungry like it sometimes is in the United States.”
But it’s not only the Boeuf Bourguignon and baguettes that have made Chez Yasu a beloved bistro. It’s the bonds that have been created through nearly two decades of dining.
“We have wonderful employees who sometimes leave for a time to get married or have children and then come back because they love our customers and our customers love us,” said Ueno. “My son, who is 19 now, grew up here and we’ve all been lucky to make really good friendships.”
Those relationships were especially helpful during the pandemic when many customers bought gift cards and ordered takeout to help keep the restaurant afloat. Many regulars are elderly and those who are widowed often continue to come to Chez Yasu for sustenance in all its forms.
“Because we know each other so well, they come here to eat and they don’t feel lonely,” she said. Ueno loves seeing younger customers experience the restaurant for the first time and their choruses of “we’ll be back” remind her “to do a better job with social media.”
Customers comprise neighborhood residents, legislators, travelers and individuals attending private parties hosted by Washburn University, pharmaceutical companies and other organizations. The restaurant is also a popular location for celebrating anniversaries, rehearsal dinners, milestone birthdays and other occasions.
Hatasawa retired five years ago, and Ueno has continued the work they started. A fine arts major in college, she never envisioned a career as a restaurateur.
“When we opened Chez Yasu, we took a calculated risk,” she said. “I’m grateful it worked out well. I wouldn’t be where I am today without our customers and our community.”
